This may have been my best riding day in Michigan yet. After checking out of the R&R Motel, I headed North once again. My goal is to hit the famous "tunnel of trees." However, along the way I also need to stop by "Fishtown." Bambi was very emphatic that I see "Fishtown."
Fishtown
It turns out Fishtown is a historic "village" located on the coast of Leland Michigan.
Think of it as the tip of the "pinky finger" of Michigan. Now, after seeing Greenfield Village - not just a museum but one of the greatest collections of history brought to life by one of the wealthiest men in the world - I would say Fishtown is more of a local passion project started by some industrious citizens who happened to care a great deal about the cities fishing history.
Look, I'm not trying to be mean. It just doesn't stack up against The Henry Ford okay? If you want to read about it here's the sign... (if it's too hard to read, you can scroll to the end. I used my iPhone to copy the text to make it easier to read and pasted it at the bottom of the post).
But I made it!
The day is absolutely beautiful. This is the day I had hoped for a week earlier, but instead storm clouds chased me East and South. Today, the sky is blue and the rain ended in the night. This is by far the best riding I have done on this trip, and I have yet to reach the Tunnel of Trees.
I stopped and had a "brunch" - there's a sandwich shop at the peer, and a cute little coffee shop. I ordered the... #14 what ever that was - like Turkey, Bacon cucumber and tomato. (Who puts cucumber on a sandwich?). It was very good, but a lot of bread. The best part were the Wisconsin Cheese potato chips.
But. That's enough food. I gotta go! This is going to be a long riding day - not by distance but by time. I have decided to go all the way to Northport which is the tip of the pinky, and then head back down toward Traverse City. I won't anywhere near the Tunnel of trees until the afternoon.
I expect the ride down the inlet side of Grand Traverse Bay to be boring, but it is anything but. Unlike my trip a week earlier, the roads twist and turn and there are ample chances to see the water.
Traverse City
TC is the king of beach towns. This is not your sleepy little hamlet on the water, this city is big, vibrant, and old. In a lot of ways the vibe reminded me of Boulder Colorado, or downtown Scottsdale. Hip happening busy people come here to play. This is not a place of solitude. It pulses with energy. I find the Harley Dealership but it is not easy because the entire bay front drive is under construction.
Look, every thing everywhere is under construction. I have never seen so much infrastructure construction at once in my entire life. From major free ways, to resort towns, I would not be surprised to learn that every single able bodied construction worker in the United States is gainfully employed full time.
As much as I would love to stay and explore, I have to go. The Tunnel calls but this construction is not helping. I'm losing time. I doubt I've covered a hundred miles yet today. I take ember, and ride up the east side of the bay, toward Petosky. When I get to Charlevoix (an other famous Michigan town I don't have time to visit) - I'm in for a surprise. The ONE road that heads north goes over a draw bridge that is as busy with boats at the street is with cars.
I've never seen anything like this. My expectations for making good time have been completely dashed. Again.
The Tunnel of Trees
At last, I reach the tunnel of trees. This is a 24 mile stretch of narrow asphalt track that has no center stripe. I'm amazed they paved it.
In fact, I can't believe the state hasn't come in and shut the thing down, or replaced it, or something. It just seems so... antiquated (and a little dangerous) but it is also gorgeous.
The Outhouse
One fun surprise almost smack in the middle of the Tunnel of Trees was a great little coffee shop where I could stop, refresh with some caffeine and hop on a video call. Yes, they had better internet than any hotel I have stayed at on my trip. When I asked to use the bathroom however, they sent me to "follow the wood chips to the outhouse"
Seriously?
Okay, that's creepy. But I follow the path. From the outside, my expectations just keep dropping.
One one Foothills HOG ride a few years back we stopped at a park in a remote part of New Mexico. From the outside that port-a-potty looked better than this outhouse and yet that thing was the most disgusting building ever. I brace for the worst... then open the door.
Someone has a great sense of humor! This is the bougiest outhouse I have ever seen! So if you find yourself on the Tunnel of Trees stop by Trillium Woods Coffee for a great cup of Joe, some excellent internet, and don't forget to check out the outhouse.
Bonus Content
This is the text from the Fishtown sign:
MICHIGAN
*
REGISTERED LELAND HISTORIC
DISTRICT (FISHTOWN)
This commercial fishing district has provided a livelihood for residents of the town for over a century. Fishermen reached the fishing grounds of Lake Michigan by way of the Leland River (Carp River) using small sailboats until the introduction of primitive gas-powered oak boats around 1900. Small fishing shanties and related buildings• such as ice and smoke houses were constructed during the peak years of the industry which spanned the first three decades of the twentieth century. Now gray and weather-beaten, some still serve their original purpose. Other
era in the latter half of the nine® teenth century, Leland continues to be a commercial fishing area as well as the headquarters for transportation to the Maniton Islands.
MICHIGAN HIOTORY DIVISION, DEPARTMENT OF STATE
REGISTERED STATE BITE NO. 407
PROPERTY OF THE STATE OF MICHIGAN, 1977
